Chef John Bubala has been described by the press as a person who bubbles
with enthusiasm as he greets guests in his Chicago restaurant. He's also a
good businessman who "tells it like it is." Like his food, his
cooking style can be explained by what you see is what you get. "I
waited a long time before I accepted an executive chef role in a
restaurant and even longer before I took on the responsibility of owning
my own establishment," he notes.
You will not find 25 flavors mixed up on one plate at Thyme. His
flavors are symbiotic. They are combined with a thoughtful rational. If
you talk to John Bubala and then read his menu, it will make perfect
sense. He calls his wood burning rotisserie his "third arm."
Spit roasted meats are a specialty at Thyme. Bubala has cooked on one for
more than seven years and has used it to cook everything from Conger Eel
to Rack of Veal to Mako Shark and Philippino Black Chicken. Seafood is
abundant on the menu, as are his wonderfully fresh seasonal vegetable
creations.
As a young man growing up in the suburbs of Chicago, Bubala was aware
of other food worlds. His grandparents lived on Cape Cod, where he spent
most of his summers feasting on oysters, clams, and mussels.
He really didn't attend college thinking he would be a chef, but opened
a Morton's of Chicago in Boston as chef de cuisine with renown
restaurateur Arnie Morton and later worked at the four star, four diamond,
Boston Harbor Hotel and the five star, five diamond, Boston Four Seasons.
He soaked up the French techniques that were instilled in him at both fine
hotels and today they are creatively reflected in his cooking.
Seafood dominates Bubala's clever menus and it's easy to see how the
East Coast has influenced his cooking style. In fact, he remembers exactly
the day when he knew he wanted to be a chef.
"It was 1989 and I saw my first Styrofoam case of hydroponically
grown baby lettuces from Kantor Canyon farms in Los Angeles."
Bubala's childhood home was situated across from a working farm.
"I saw chickens and cows, but as a kid, I never made the connection
as to what a farm can produce." Now, Bubala buys produce and products
from small farmers across America and enjoys the process of researching
new and interesting sources.
He cooks what he calls, "French-American straight out." Of
course there is history to both countries and just as the restaurant cries
out a historic ambiance, so does his research of flavors that have stood
the test of time historically in America.
"Wild onion, maze, fish from the Chesapeake River and seafood from
Nantucket - these are foods that Americans have been eating for many
years," says Bubala. "I add my interpretation and you have
Thyme," he says, smiling.
Thyme was named after the chef's favorite herb, so you should not be
surprised to find English, Silver, Mexican and Lemon Thyme utilized in
dishes such as Sautéed Calamari with Lemon Thyme Nage.
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